Dresden
A couple of hours on the autobahn, heading north-east. The autobahn network remains fascinating: the protocols of who keeps right, the overtaking and the outright speed of some cars. We peaked at a little over 140km/h and were still overtaken and left behind. It was amazing how quickly a car could appear in the rear vision. My estimate was that there were many cars doing 160km/h and handful even faster!
Bottom line, we saw some more of Germany. In fact we entered the former East Germany. There was a sign on the autobahn marking where the border had been. There were a couple of guard towers type structures but we’re not sure that they were part of border protection.
We arrived in Dresden in the afternoon and checked into our hotel. There was an immediate sense of a different character to the city. There was much more ‘recent’ style buildings.
OK, short history lesson. On 13 February 1945, Dresden (a non-target: no war industry or significant military facilities) was bombed day (by US Air Force) and night (by RAF). Incendiaries bombs were used and they created a ‘fire storm’ (the amount of heat and fire creates its own weather effect). The fire was destructive to the old city. It had another devastating effect too: it consumed the oxygen! Many of the Germans who went into bomb shelters were suffocated. The Nazi propaganda machine said 250,000 people were killed. The more accurate assessment is that somewhere between 18,000 and 25,000 people were killed. In one night, Dresden suffered casualties equal to approx 50% of British casualties for the whole ‘Blitz’ period between 1940-41.
A photo of the Frauenkirche (Ladies Church) in 1991
Dresden’s fate then suffered another blow. Within weeks of the bombing the Russian forces arrived. Their revenge on Germans and Germany was severe. Of course, the Russians remained in occupation (pseudo-control) of East Germany until 1989. This creates a contrast of how Germany cities were rebuilt. In the west, you see more restoration and reconstruction. In the east, not so much. Therefore, Dresden has this character of some historic buildings but with newer character-less functional buildings. Then there is another layer, which is the post-Wall (1989). These buildings tend to be a more modern and innovative. At least, not as bland as the Soviet era!
Our hotel was near a large mall and shopping centre. We explored the shops in detail. There were no solely dedicated quilting stores (to Karen’s disappointment) but there were several stores with sizeable art and craft section. No bargains found!
From the window of our hotel.
A blend of old and new.
The mall.
On our second day in Dresden it was time to return the panzer grey Festiva. The Festiva has served us well. We racked up a few km and pushed the speed barrier (for a Festiva). We walked back from the drop off point via areas of the old city (Alte Stadt). It still amazes to walk through streets and see buildings that have been there since 12th or 13th century (even if reconstructed in part). Dresden has suffered its fair share of wars and natural disasters in its several hundred years.
Later, we caught the tram to the Military Historisches Museum (Bundeswehr (German Army) Museum). Yes… Karen brought a book and enjoyed a couple of hours quiet time reading (the book…The Dressmakers of Auschwitz). I got to wander through the German depiction of their military history. The museum presents a blend of proud but contrite; factual and accountable. I was interesting to see the displays from the Frederick the Great era, Napoleonic, World Wars and recent conflicts (eg Afghanistan). I enjoyed the museum very much and Karen enjoyed her book.
The Museum (a former military barracks)
Some arty-farts architect created the big grey thing on the left.
One of the grand paintings in the museum.
I have lots of other photos of bits and pieces. I am more than happy to talk about them!
Back on the Tram, across the Elbe to our hotel. A light lunch and a quiet afternoon.
Crossing the Elbe.
A photo that sort of captures Dresden. New construction on top of old , with even more ancient foundations.
I haven't been to Dresden, but I'm familiar with the name because of the Dresden Doll reference and the 1945 destruction that you described. It was probably a beautiful city pre-WWII. I have read The Dressmakers of Auschwitz, Karen. Fascinating stories about holocaust survivors.
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